Friends in the Middle of Nowhere

As you can see, I am enjoying myself, and have met many amigos. This photo is of me at a bar just before voting day and now call it "el bar de los viejos..." Professionally, I have started teaching and English writing course and am working on the internal regulation for the Congressional Library here in Asunción. We have a holiday tomorrow! At the house all is well, and I am set up in the casita by myself. I am getting more used to the custom of having helpers around the house, though it is harder than you think to give up cooking, ironing, shopping, etc. It sounds like I am whining about royal treatment, I know, but in the States we are very accustomed (or at least me!) to our independence. I have been talking a lot with José Luis about the economy, people, and various other social characteristics of the Paraguayan people.

The other night I went out with a few friends from the Institute and we had a good time drinking and conversing about the culture of Paraguay etc. To the left are Diego and Ingrid, dancing to a band named djavan. I have yet to secure a disc of the music, but will be scouting for one the next time I am at Mercado 4. Very Latin American, it is a market that has absolutely everything you could ever want. Many of the vendors sell almost exactly the same things as the one next door.

One thing that I found interesting is that I am not rare here with regard to skin or hair color. It was quite different in México, because over the years a relatively great number of nations have contributed genetic character to the nation’s people. From a well-known Paraguayan author, Helio Vera, we learn that the Paraguayan has a fantastic genetic history and all have contributed at some time or another. More about the Paraguayan identity in a later post. I have received no judgment or awkward looks from anyone, even when I am confused about where I am going and how to count the money that they have here.

On that note, I’ll give you an idea of the currency. They say that the cost of living in Paraguay is one of the lowest in the world (Paraguay ranks on many lists in either the top or bottom), and it seems to be true. The exchange rate of a dollar is 4300 Guaraní, which means that items often have many zeros in their price and at first seem expensive. However, things are very inexpensive. A tie that I bought the other day, for instance, was the equivalent of about $6; a box of Chex less than $2; cigarettes cost about .70; and a six pack of Budweiser (which fortunately for me dominates all parts of the world) $4. It must be noted, though, that the Paraguayan salary is not high, and those who spend money on these things for their families and themselves, find the prices sometimes prohibitive. Plus, I am living in the capital, which means that here are the best of the best economically speaking. Don’t get me wrong, Paraguays are surely not swimming in plata.

Bienvenidos al tercer mundo... (Welcome to the Third World)

Driving through the streets of Paraguay from the airport, one of the first things I noticed was the political propaganda of the leading Colorado candidate. Unknowingly, my arrival in Paraguay—one of the most corrupt countries in the world—coincided with the popular election where the underlying theme was cambio. They say as a joke that Paraguay lost first place through a bribe.

My accommodations, I found, were extraordinary. What I call my casita is separate from the main house and has a bathroom, a television with cable, and an office area on the second floor. Most of the meals are arranged by two women, Marcela and Julia, and they do the laundry, cleaning, and cooking, and other household work. While this setup is provocative and objectionable in the States, it is part of a well-established and inoffensive division of labor in Latin American countries. My, don’t I feel like a VIP?!



To the left is the patio of the main house. Paraguay also has the most hospitable people I’ve met in my short life. The immediate family is made up of five: Stael, her husband José Luis, and their three daughters. No, none of them are single, and since they are like sisters its fortunate that Paraguay is home to many, many beauties of the opposite sex.



The daughters are about my same age and are named Carolina, Veronica (Vero), and Pili. At right are (l to r) Carlos, Pili, (my boss, more or less), Stael, and Jose Luis. We were celebrating his 71st bday. None of the daughters live at the house now, but they are in and out almost daily. And there is Tico, who I've included a photo of, and my shoe should give you an idea of his delectable size. Paraguayans lament those without company, and are quick to begin a conversation or talk with you while you are enjoying a meal or drink.


Despite the fact that it is “winter” here, it very warm during the afternoons. The sun is strong. During the evenings, like in the picture of my casita from the main house, below, a good amount of cool air comes through, and walking around is very pleasurable. José Luis says that there are only two estaciones here in Paraguay: summer, and the railroad station – the latter of which has closed. I'll manage, I'm sure, and it is supposed to get cooler as the season goes on. I walked around a little bit this morning and saw that they are more developed than I believed. At the house here they have all the luxuries (more or less) that we have in the States. We live quite a ways from the Centro, but I have been down there several times in the car and had some drinks at Lido Bar, which has been there for some 80 years.


My travel here went well. There was some confusion about my flight in Miami – mostly because I failed to confirm that I was at the right gate – and a travel agent with American booked me on a later flight to Santiago, Chile. My luck, it seems, had not quite run out. The first week that I was here in Asunción I took it easy and caught up on some things, and went to the office the following Tuesday. When I arrived from the airport, he told me that he had applied for a bid to create the operating structure of the Congressional Library, so I knew that from the start my projects would be ambitious. There was much talk of politics, much of which I did not understand. The political party which has held power here since the rise of the Communist Party in China was about to be ousted by popular vote.